1 Falassarna - Hrisoskalitissa Monastery - Elafonissi - Saint Sofia Cave

Our way ran to the extreme west of the island. The E75 highway ends in the coastal settlement Kissamos, and, passing into the usual road, through 3 more km it leads to the port. Without turning to the port, we passed further. The road, after turning to the south, began to slowly rise to an uphill. In Platanos village we have turned right to Falassarna. The descent to the sea began, and the remarkable view of the western coast of island was opened before us.

The broadening of roadside are frequently provided on the mountain roads of the island in places with picturesque views, so that the numerous tourists could stop, admire by view and photograph it. It happens frequently, but not always. Sometimes for the taking of a good picture I had to press the car to the right, to switch on the fault signaling, to stop, rapidly to leave and to make a photograph. This time, however, the parking of roadside restaurant was situated at the desired place. After making our matters, we passed downward to the beach.

The beach was pleased to us: the bright sun, white sand, transparent water, lack of people and beauty of place detained us here longer than the usual. Cool water and a little roughness of the sea did not spoil a general impression. We did not want to leave, but the road called us, we had to pass a long way that day.

Falassarna. Click to enlarge Falassarna, the beach. Click to enlarge

After rising back to Platanos, we have turned to Elafonissi, and there began the serpentine of mountain road with descents and ascents, with countless hairpin bends, with maximum speed of 40 km/h on the third gear. In the villages situated along the way, it is necessary to reduce the speed to 20 km/h, since some houses, between which passes the road, are located so closely, that between them can pass only one vehicle. Besides, any pickup which is parked near a house can also considerably reduce the road. There is no possibility for driver to enjoy majestic views from the height, only in the spaces between turnings he can steal a glance, and then again all attention to the road.

At the distance of 6 kilometres before the famous beach rightwards on the cliff , all in white, has appeared the Hrisoskalitissa (golden step) Monastery, named so for the last of 98 steps of the stairway, which leads to the sacred cliff. It was made from gold and sold subsequently together with another property of the monastery for the payment of taxes to sultan. The contemporary structures of monastery is built in the second half of XIX century.

After paying 2 euros for each one at the entrance, we have mounted a ladder. In the niche within the wall, in the environment of candles and a censer, stands the icon of God Mother with the Baby. We have entered into the narrow entrance of the museum, which is the small corridor, at the walls were located a loom, the large bottles of raki (strong alcoholic drink of grape), on the walls were hung icons, agricultural instruments, dishes. And at the end of the corridor was situated a small pulpit with a table-lectern and an open thick book on it. From under the table it was heard the quiet singing of church chorus, intended to produce (and produced) reverential trembling to visitors. Further, after visiting a church above and after looking around from above the surroundings of monastery, we have gone down to the car and have continued our way.

Hrisoskalitissa. Click to enlarge The icon in the wall. Click to enlarge The museum. Click to enlarge Into the church. Click to enlarge

Elafonissi (deer island). After leaving the car at the end of the road under the trees, we have gone to the sea. Although it is called island, we have passed to it without having moistened our feet on the broad sandy belt (true, this belt is intersected by a narrow channel, but when we were there it was partially dried up). The island is low, only small sandy or rocky hillocks are found there; and on its perimeter it is surrounded by the small beaches with the absolutely smooth sea, divided by the rocky sections of coast. Somewhere on the coast reddish-brown grits are mixed into the yellowish-white sand, giving to its color the pink tint. The same sand we saw also in Balos bay.

Pink sand. Click to enlarge Pink sand. Click to enlarge A seagull. Click to enlarge


Panorama of Elafonissi
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Time came to return. On the way back in Kefali village we have turned to the right and went along a calmer road.

The part of the road passes along Topolia Gorge. Here we have stopped in order to rise into the cave which is found at the left side of the road on a height approximately 50 metres. A steep rocky stairway leads there, on its halfway located a taverna. The bell in a stone frame meets visitors at the entrance into the cave, the small church of Saint Sofia is located here. The cave is filled with stalagmites, i.e. rock icicles, which grow from bottom to top, so it’s impossible to pass into the depths of the cave, but then the picturesque view of opposite hill is opened.

The entrance into the cave. Click to enlarge Top view. Click to enlarge The church of Saint Sofia. Click to enlarge

Further along the road we have stopped at a light signal before the narrow tunnel with the alternating traffic to the different sides. The tunnel is short, but with a sufficiently sharp turn.

At the end of the road we have turn to the right to E75 and have gone home.

     

2 Kissamos - Gramvousa - Balos Lagoon

After leaving hotel at 8 a.m., we have gone along the familiar road to the port of Kissamos, hoping to arrive in 2 hours to the departure of the ship to Gramvousa, which is the small islet with the fortress on a hill and with the striking views from there. After being en route 1 hour 40 min, we have parked directly in the port, have purchased tickets (22 euros for each one) and immediately have passed to the ship "Gramvousa" which was situated beside.

We have occupied our places on the open deck, as it seemed to us, on the bow of the ship at the left side. In the water close to surface a picturesque jellyfish stood in beauty. After half-hour our vessel has turned around and put to the sea back to front. Actually the ship received passengers not from the stern, as it is accepted in the normal ships, but from the bow. As a result our places come to be behind at the right side, there were nothing to see, and therefore we had to pass to another board of vessel for sightseeing and photographing the peninsula.

The ship has passed past the wide cave in which, as it is considered, in ancient times was located a shipyard. Then we have gone around Vouxa Cape - the northern extremity of the peninsula. A black line is clearly visible on cliffs approximately in a metre above the sea, this is the line of sea level in the antiquity. Provided to be, as a result of earthquakes the shift of the earth's crust occurred, which led to the fact that the western part of Crete has risen, and the east part has sunk.

The port of Kissamos. Click to enlarge A jellyfish. Click to enlarge The cave. Click to enlarge The risen shore. Click to enlarge "Wild" Gramvousa. Click to enlarge Vouxa Cape. Click to enlarge

We have left at the right side the rocky lifeless island Agria ("wild") Gramvousa and have approached the first destination of our cruise, the island Imeri ("tame") Gramvousa with the moorage, the beach and the Venetian fortress, built in the XVI century and located at a height of 137 metres. Not far from the moorage near the coast stands the rusted frame of ship, which don't let to forget about the proximity to civilization even in this neglected corner of the earth. Before the debarkation in several languages it was announced the basic information about the island and about a time to be back aboard for the further trip.

After getting out to the coast of the island, my wife has settled on the beach, and I have taken the tripod and climbed upward at the fortress together with the majority of tourists. The narrow zigzag path with uneven stone steps leads there. It was heat and the ascending is passed slowly and heavily. There are several half-wrecked houses and loopholes above, and also the low walls, or rather just barriers. From the southern side of the island is opened the remarkable view of the sea, the hilly peninsula and Balos Lagoon. After making the panorama, I have passed along the wall and have gone down to the sea. There were no time to bathe - we have to return aboard.

The fortress. Click to enlarge A ruined church. Click to enlarge The beach. Click to enlarge Top view. Click to enlarge A fortress gate. Click to enlarge Our ship "Gramvousa". Click to enlarge


Panorama from the Gramvousa fortress
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The next destination was Balos Lagoon at a distance of 2.5 kilometres from the Gramvousa island. There was not any moorage and the passengers was transported on the coast by boats. However, the way on the boat was short and the debarkation passed rapidly. Furthermore, from the board got down a pneumatic chute, and everybody could roll down in the sea on it and swim to the coast on one's own. Amazingly, while on the northern shore of island it was stormy everywhere, here on the west the sea was absolutely quiet.

The lagoon is a little closed bay, located between the main land and the small peninsula Tigani and connected with the sea with a narrow channel. From the coast of the "continent" rises the high hill, its top was hid in a cloud when we were there. The peninsula which located on the opposite side has the rounded form in plan and the steep shore. How beautifully it would be there if there weren't so many people! People, as I noted, generally have a quality to spoil a view...

The depth on the larger part of the lagoon does not exceed half metre, only near the channel are further, nearer to the high shore, the depth grows. Being sinked into the water here, it is possible to feel the temperature difference between the adjacent sections of water at the bottom, somewhere above the surface it is possible to feel the smell of hydrogen sulfide. Apparently, subterranean springs getting out here. The coasts and the bottom of the lagoon are partially covered with "pink" sand, the same as on the beaches of Elafonissi.

A debarkation from a boat. Click to enlarge Pink sand. Click to enlarge Balos Lagoon. Click to enlarge


Panorama of Balos Lagoon
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At 16.30 we have returned aboard, and our cruise has finished by the return to Kissamos port.    Further...