Santorini

After two hours of the sea transition from Naxos the same our ferry "Blue Star Naxos" has approached Santoríni (Thíra) and began to float along the western coast of island. Many tourists with cameras moved to the left board of the ship to imprint a majestic spectacle: the huge dark rock, at the apex of which are stuck the white small houses. In one of the such small houses we should spend 5 days.

The island has the form of a half moon, of which the internal semicircle together with the bottom of adjoining sea space are the Caldera - the huge hollow which has formed after volcanic eruption in XV century B.C., which as it is supposed, has destroyed Cycladic-Minoan civilization. Before eruption there was a big and round island, and after that have remained: Santorini, Thirassiá - the small island limiting Caldera from northwest, and the rock Aspronísi in a southwest. Later, as a result of activity of still alive volcano, in the center of a circle were formed two more islets - Paliá Kaméni and Néa Kaméni. There is a scientific theory, according to which the mysterious Atlantis was located just here.

On the northern horn of a half moon above the Caldera is raised the settlement Oia (it is pronounced "Ía", and further I’ll use this word; many times there I saw confusion of tourists, who don’t know the rules of Greek phonetics {they actually should not to} and saying "oia" when asked the way, for example). Closer to the center of island is situated the almost continuous line of small houses, these are settlements Imerovígli (Merovígli), Firostefáni and the capital Fíra (Thíra). Further on the south at the foot of rock is located the port Athínios where we have finished our voyage.

After going ashore the situation with the search for the tablet of hotel has repeated, only this time it was more difficultly to find it - arrived people were more, and the area of the port was less. The minibus this time transported to the several hotels. At once has begun the climb of approximately 200 m along the zigzag road; the ears popped as in the plane. We passed up to Fira, where the major part of the passengers has landed, and then they carried us too.

Our hotel "Irini's Villas" is located in the southern part of the settlement Imerovigli, the highest place above the Caldera. Sunset is not visible from here, but are visible: the Kameni islands, Thirassia, the southern horn of Santorini, the adjacent settlement Firostefani and the large cruise liners, every day in number 5 pieces coming to the island, which from this height (about 250 m) seem like toy ships. However, from above this sensation of height is lost, looking downward, you do not distinguish either 50 meter it is beneath you or 250. The apartment rooms with the small terraces stepwise get down, forming by themselves several levels of those small houses on the cliff. The colors of houses are traditional Cycladic - white walls, blue windows and doors. On one of these levels is located the terrace with little tables, beach beds and small pool-jacuzzi of the triangular form. Our apartments were located just above this terrace. And above us there passed a popular tourist path along the Caldera, so a multilingual noise of conversations and enthusiastic exclamations we heard till the late evening.

Our accommodation consisted of living room with the high ceiling, mezzanine, three windows, sofa, table, conditioner, TV and kitchenette; it adjoined the bathroom and bedroom without the windows with the arched ceiling; and certainly, the terrace at the door with the table and the remarkable view.

Having settled in the rooms, we have gone along the above-mentioned path to the direction of Fira, on the way shooting the splendid views, which are opened from the top of precipice. We reached the cableway, which delivers people downward to the port of Fira. After the cableway station starts the shopping district with the numerous souvenir, jewelry and other stores. We was amazed of a quantity of churches on our way, they are at every turn there.

We had dinner at restaurant "Skaros" above the precipice not far from the hotel. We have ordered stewed mutton with vegetables and more domestic wine (about 30 Euros).

Next morning has started a torrential rain. All stairs have turned to waterfalls. As soon as the rain has ceased a little, in the room was brought a breakfast consisting of coffee, a biscuit and sandwiches with a ham, jam, honey. Two young women served our small hotel: they welcomed visitors, cleaned in numbers, prepared breakfasts.

After a rain the sun has appeared, the spouse has taken a place at pool, and I have gone to Skáros – the flattop rock of black and red stone on a cliff, which projects in the sea before Imerovigli. Once there was a Venetian fortress from which have remained only insignificant fragments. A path leads there from the settlement; a small church stands along the way. Behind and below of Skaros is located one more church, which overhangs above the sea. On the Skaros, in general, is possible to climb, I saw a couple standing upon it, but it’s difficultly enough, I and the others tried to do it singly, we couldn’t. Probably, this is a business for two. As a souvenir I have taken from there a small stone - pumice of brick color. Unsuccessfully trying to find a way downwards to the sea, I have passed on a footpath, skirting the Skaros approximately 10 meters below the rock’s foot. The eagle flew along the cliffs, uttering the short alarming cries, next to me has run a vagrant dog. There was the sensation of the sublimity of the surrounding landscape and my insignificance in it. Imagined myself what would be if one would make a step aside, whether it is possible to stop rolling down or not…

After a lunch I have gone along the familiar road to Fira. After the cableway station and the shopping district at the crowded square is located the large Cathedral, with a dome, colonnade and belfry, all in white. Behind it and to the left into the depth of island is located the central bus terminal, whence buses go to the all settlements of Santorini. By the way, in Imerovigli there is a stoppage on the route Fira - Ia. Timetable and prices are here. The conductor sells tickets inside the bus, unlike in Naxos where it was necessary to buy tickets in advance.

Near to a Cathedral and bus terminal there is a Prehistoric museum where I have decided to come. Tickets cost 3 euros, but that day they were free of charge. In the museum are represented the things, which were found in the Akrotíri. There the archaeologists under the layers of volcanic deposits have dug out the settlement of the Cycladic civilization, which flourished in the island before the eruption of a volcano of XVII century B.C. - the statuettes of people, cups, mugs, the fragments of wall painting, the gold statuette of goat.

Next morning we were woken with a peal – the Sunday has begun. And we, having had breakfast, have gone together to Fira to get a bus up to Kamári – the settlement with a beach from black sand. But, unfortunately, during a trip was a rain, and even having not bathing, only having made a pair of shots we have returned to hotel.

After a lunch the weather has cleared up so we have gone on foot to Ia (8,5 km according to Google Earth). Beyond Imerovigli the road has gone to the descent and a row of five-stars hotels with big territories and pools (for example «Pantheon») has begun, but we would not like there, there is not in them the romantics of the life on cliff for which we have arrived here … Then have begun the flat but lengthy ascents and descents, in all 2 times. And at the tops of hills there are ubiquitous churches. Sometimes the footpath became barely passable, as passed over stones. By places the path, along which we dispatch, became impenetrable, since it was necessary to go along the stones. The route had the moderate popularity; ahead and behind us on a sufficient distance walked the similar couples of tourists. Beyond the last descent there was the settlement Finikiá, and further - Ia.

In Ia amazes an abundance of gift shops, or the shops of an applied art (artshops). Here one can to purchase even, for example, a wooden door with the picture or a small carriage (but how then to take it away?). There are a lot of images of church with the dark blue dome, white houses and sunset – the popular symbols of island. We, however, have not bought anything here. The architecture in Ia is more attractive, than in other places above the Caldera, but a level above the sea is lower, it is located far enough from the center of island, and every evening there come the crowds of tourists to admire a sunset.

A sunset meanwhile approached, people came more and more, and we have hurried to occupy a place at this free-of-charge representation.

Everything has passed quickly, the sun has acted according to its talent and has left, the public has exploded with applause and enthusiastic shouts and has moved one after the other to the exit. We were lucky to get quickly to a door of the bus and to occupy the places at the entrance. The bus has become cram-full and has gone; even so the conductor someway could to elbow his way through passengers and to sell the tickets.

Next day I have gone by bus with change in Períssa - one more settlement with a beach from black sand, and have decided to pass along the coast from the huge white rock Mésa Vounó until I should tired. First time all the time there was a never-ending black beach, sand changed to pebble and back, Perissa has changed to Perívolos. Weather was remarkable and it was easily and pleasantly to walk, always it was possible to stop and to bathe. People on a beach were less and less, and finally the beach umbrellas with the straw roofs have ceased and the wild beach has begun. It was possible occasionally to meet here only couples that sunbathed stark naked, at my approach covered, probably because of an inscription on the tablet: "Nudism is forbidden", met by me on a way. After going around the southern extremity of island I have come to the Cretan Sea. Here I have had to depart from a coast as the beach has terminated and the inhabited constructions projecting directly to the sea have begun. It is the settlement Vliháda.

Having passed a little on the settlement, I have come to the port of Vlihada, and then to the beach. Here after the narrow strip of black sand is raised the wall from the soft light grey sandstone with the whimsical patterns on its surface, which gives to a landscape absolutely unearthly appearance. The public beach has ended soon, the group of nudists laid further, and then there was a long empty coast where one can experience the sensation of absolute rest and solitude, there is nobody around - only you and the sea. Here and there in sandstone were made the small open cells, in one place there was a pair of rooms larger, with locked doors, and in front of them a canopy with the little tables and chairs, everything has rusted and has been neglected, probably, several years ago. Local sandstone is a fragile material and sometimes in the wind collapses, at a distance of 50 meters before me a cloud of dust has risen from the fall of part of a wall; though the light-colored sand does not reach anywhere to the sea, throughout the coast an entry to the sea is a black pebble mixed up with a black sand.

Once the way was blocked with a rock, which should be bypassed from above on vineyards. Grapes on Santorini are the small round bushes, 30 centimeters in height, that laying on the reddish dry ground (Though local wines are known enough, we have brought a bottle of sweet Vinsanto for 35 euros for home).

Soon I have come again to the sea, stones replaced the pebble, and it became more difficult to go. After a while I have approached a settlement that has proved to be Akrotiri. Further behind a rock, probably, there was a well-known red beach, but I have neither strength, nor a wish to go there, besides at this time the bus has driven up and I have returned to hotel.

For a supper this day we have cooked the stewed octopus that was bought frozen in the nearby shop (9-10 euros). It was pleasant to us.

Next day we have gone together to Perissa, sat there in the cafe, last time have bathed in the sea. The rest of the day we have spent on the terrace of hotel near the pool and the precipice.

And by night through our settlement the clouds started to fly. A surprising spectacle! Everything were in a light white haze, above us and above adjacent Firostefani it turned to a dense cloud, and past us it flew in light of the lamps and disappeared in the darkness. Having risen at 6 in the morning and having left the room, I have found out a dense veil of fog around and zero visibility. So Santorini said goodbye to us.

There has come the day of departure. At 11 o'clock we have released our accommodation, have put luggage in a reception of hotel and began to await the transfer bus till half past two at a little table near the precipice. Our accommodation was occupied immediately, and I have gone last time to walk on Imerovigli and have bought there as a souvenir a faience handbell with picture (3-4 euros). In due time we have risen to a road, have got on a bus and have gone to the port. We were to make an eight-hour sea passage up to Piraeus.

According to the general impression, Santorini is the unique place, where the majestic and frightening natural beauty of Caldera is combined with the refined in its simplicity and joyful beauty of the architecture of island. In its own way is unique the opposite coast of island, first of all by its many-colored beaches and by its "unearthly" appearances.

One more remark. If it was possible to characterize Santorini with one definition, I would name this island "photogenic". Some tourists, judging by the opinions, are disappointed when arrive there, not finding there that especial beauty which they saw in photos. And actually, recalling our stay there, we did not experience any trembling, when we looked at all beauties of the island: small, as if toy houses on closer examination become completely real and proportional, the precipice of Caldera is not such impressing, sunset in Ia is a usual sunset. But in the photos everything miraculously changes. And in fact the pictures, which we make, have the property to replace the personal memories, more and more in the course of time. And that what seemed simply picturesque place, and no more, turns to "a dream"…

Piraeus and the return

So, time has come to come back home. On the ferry we have occupied places in a hall with seats of "aircraft type" as outside there was rather cold because of wind. However at Naxos many passengers have come, a steward has begun to check tickets and all owners of the tickets of economy class were asked to go outside. On the open deck we have put our sweaters on, have taken something from a fast food and have occupied a little table. When we approached Attica, it has absolutely darkened, and only the faint lights of far coast were visible. Finally about midnight we have reached Piraéus.

According to plan we should have found a stop of the bus, which goes from here up to the airport at night every half an hour, have got the bus, have reached the airport and have awaited for the plane which departs at 9 o'clock in the morning. However, the plan has not worked at the first stage. Probably, we have got out of the habit of big cities. Having on hands the detailed map of this area, the satellite photograph, having examined the plan of port at the stand, we could not find this ill-starred stop. Meanwhile all passengers have departed, in the port remained only we, lost in unfamiliar city, and several homeless people, putting themselves to bed on benches.

Here a moustached man has driven up to us on the Mercedes, I have asked him about a bus stop, he has explained (it proved to be that we should go beyond the territory of port), and has offered us, as the alternative to our plan, to stay at his hotel nearby for 67 euros, and in the morning to go to the airport. We have consulted and have decided to accept the offer, as were getting tired and wished to have a sleep; we have got in the car and have quickly reached the place where I immediately have paid for room.

Hotel "Delfini" is located actually conveniently, in 100 meters from our bus stop. To us was offered the room on a ground floor, the corridor from the room conducts directly on the street. There was a small room without windows, a door to terrace is tightly closed, a bathroom required repair, but the most interesting was a large water bed - a source of new unusual sensations.

Next morning we have risen at half past six, have handed over the keys and have gone to the bus stop. There were a lot of people, the working day began. Buses drove up one after another, even was formed a queue of them; it was necessary not to miss ours. Finally the bus has driven up to the stop and... it has passed further not stopping. It proved to be that if we want to stop this bus, we should hitch it, to lift hand. Having waited for 15 minutes more, we have got in the following bus, in one and a half hours were at the airport 20 minutes prior to departure and then have got safely in the plane and have flown to Moscow.

Conclusion

I sum up. What does Greece fascinate with?

With its nature: with the clean sea, with remarkable beaches, with whimsical rocky shores and caves, with picturesque mountain landscapes, with its vegetation, maybe not too rich, but unusual. With its history, which everywhere left the tracks of different epochs and has impregnated by itself this land. With its people, the same people, which made this history, with its philosophical, contemplative attitude to life. With culture of this people: with kitchen, with music, with churches about which I want to tell particularly.

Churches in Greece can be met in the most unexpected places, at the top of hill, on the coastal cliff, just in an uninhabited place. And in cities, settlements, villages they are at every turn. In the small settlement Imerovigli I have counted 7 churches, although it is possible that there are more of them. In Athens the churches of Byzantian style prevail: the tile roof, not plastered walls of the color of stone. On the islands dominates Cycladic style: absence of the tiles; whitewashed, sometimes partially painted walls; blue, sometimes white domes. And all of them have external simplicity, elementary geometric forms: cube, hemisphere, semicylinder; there is no pretentiousness, no gilding, all the crosses are from stone. And they organically fit into landscape, giving to it the marvelous sublime beauty.

It altogether makes this country by that place where we would like to come more and more.

Certainly, we would like to see here a little more forests and verdures, a little less protracted construction, but it is a trifle. And we would like to wish Greeks to be more enthusiastic in promotion of their goods abroad. It is not possible to find retsina in Moscow, and this is terrible! Apparently we have to return...    Main page