Athens - Naxos - Santorini

I start with the words of appreciation to all people, who publish reviews about their trips, in particular to Andrey Grinyov (Anagr); the plan of our journey appeared owing to his story and photographs. And I also want to thank Katerina Bereti, our tour operator; this plan was carried out owing to her.

All photographs of our journey in overall size can be found here here.

Prehistory

The idea to visit Santorini came to me due to viewing of the changing wallpapers on the screen of the office computer. The view of uncommon houses and blue dome of church on the cliff above the sea did highly raise questions - where is that? and how to get there? The name of picture "Fira, Santorini, Cyclades Islands, Greece" gave me hope, indeed with Greece we connected plans for the future leave, and it have become now clearly - into what place in this country we will go.

We, my wife and I, have planned the trip to the second half of September of 2006. After long studying a question on the Internet I have communicated by e-mail with Katya from a travel agency in Crete, which was recommended in many reviews on the tourist forum. The initial plan was - 2 nights in Athens, 10 nights in Santorini; however, Katya convinced to visit also any another island along the way, because, according to her, 10 days in Santorini nothing to do (I’d not agree). We have chosen Naxos, and the final plan became like this: 2 nights in Athens, 6 nights in Naxos, 5 nights in Santorini, passages between Athens and islands on the ferry boat, on the islands - transfer of hotels, in Athens - by ourselves.

In April we have begun correspondence, in May we have already booked the hotels for September. In Athens and Naxos we have chosen at once that Katya has offered, with Santorini she had to work, as our conditions - caldera view and inexpensive price - are sufficiently difficult to achieve. However, everything was quickly resolved, place was found, and, anticipating, I have to tell, that any hotel has not disappointed us. At the same time in May Katya has reserved air tickets Moscow - Athens - Moscow, and we have sent her an advance payment for hotels (30 %).

In the beginning of September I have received visas and insurances by means of the Moscow tour agency offered by Katya, have taken away tickets in representation of "Olympic Airlines" and have sent a remittance of the remained money. I have to note that entire organization of tour took place in absentia, without personal contacts, through e-mail and remittances.

1 Athens

So, there has come the long-awaited day of departure. Greece has begun in the plane: all announcements were in Greek and English languages, to all passengers have given out headphones, in which some programs of the Greek radio were transmitted, have distributed a dinner with obligatory attribute - the Greek salad.

After the arrival to Athens we came into the metro station, following the direction signs. However, on foot we have passed not much, have mostly passed on the lift and on a tape of moving sidewalk. The ticket from the airport up to any station of Athens costs for two persons - 10 euros, for one - 6. An interval between trains - half an hour (the most popular interval in Greece). In general it is not exactly the metro, but as though a suburban electric train, in a city boundaries turn into the metro. Inside Athens the price of the ticket and an interval is much less. Before landing an employee walked along the platform, talked to passengers, opened them a door and invited in the car. During a trip there passed ticket collectors, and it was unique time for our short stay in Athens.

The metro consists of three lines. The old line - ISAP - passes from Piraeus up to district Kifissia, mostly on a surface and only in the center descends under the ground. The price of the ticket for trips on this line is 70 eurocents. Two other lines are actually METRO. The price of the ticket there, and also on trips with change on ISAP is 80 eurocents (exception - tickets up to the airport). Before the entrance are mounted automatic devices for punching of tickets, turnstiles are not present, so it is possible to pass, probably, without the ticket (we did not try). There are clean everywhere, at stations there are lifts for invalids, railroad cars are contemporary and convenient.

So, we have reached with one change “Metaxourgio” station, walked 200 meters and have got the hotel.

Our hotel "King Jason" is worthy three stars. To us have given a room on a penultimate sixth floor so we were almost on the top. In fact Athens, in comparison, for example, with Moscow - lower city, highest buildings have 9 floors, nothing here should cover with itself the main thing - the Acropolis. The view of the apartment houses of unusual architecture was opened from the small balcony. There were many buildings, in which 3-4 upper levels form stepped profile; a roof of the lower floor was a terrace on the upper. Directly under the windows of our number, on the roof of adjacent building there was the small house, where lived family with the child, who sometimes played on this roof as in the courtyard - original penthouse. And in the distance there was the hill Likavitos, illuminated at night. According to one familiar Athenian, the place of our stay was once haunt of vice, red-light district, reconstructed and refined before Olympiad 2004.

Evening came; we had supper at restaurant of hotel (32 euros) and have gone to walk across evening Athens. We passed to the area of Omonia square; there was a brisk street trade by magazines, books, cassettes, and disks of all possible content. We sat on bench, drank beer. Life everywhere boils. Masses of tourists passed by, occupied hotels, came from excursions. But soon we have come back in our room, tomorrow was coming difficult, but interesting day.

In the next morning we had breakfast at the hotel restaurant (buffet) and have gone on survey of sights, first of all the Acropolis - the huge flat rock towering above the city. We wanted along the way to get the tourist bus ¹400, but have not found its stop, and the idea to pass on foot seem good. Our way ran on the brisk street Tsaldari, then rise on the pedestrian streets of Hermes and Apostle Paul past several churches in the Byzantian style, and also past ruins of Keramikos, Thissio, and ancient Agora.

At last, tired, we have reached an entrance on the Acropolis. At the ticket office there was a queue of tourists from the entire world. The ticket costs 12 euros, it permits to visit as well some other ancient monuments, but for us have sufficed only the Acropolis. Above there are several constructions: entrance itself – the Propylaia, the Erechtheion with the caryatids instead of the columns, and the most famous and most majestic - the Parthenon. And from above there are remarkable views of Athens, including other ancient constructions: Herodeion, where concerts till now are spent; Dionysos theatre – the most ancient theatre; Temple of Olympian Zeus, where contemporary heathens gather.

After looking around and after making a mass of photographs, we went down to the metro and arrived at the hotel. The after-dinner survey of sights took place already in solitude; my wife remained to rest in the number. And I arrived at the station Syntagma and passed to the House of Parliament to look the famous change of the guard of “evzons” at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Ceremony take place each half an hour. Slowly enough, as though specially posing for cameras, “evzons” converge from two sides along the wall, highly waving arms and legs, relieve one another, and take their stand near booths under a canopy. Next to them strolls a policeman, corrects their clothing and drives off too importunate tourists.

Near the House of Parliament there is the National Park, where I have come, walked around, sat in a shadow of trees, the weariness from morning transition was felt. The real large trees - they so don’t suffice in this country, at least, where we were.

After reaching the Zappion palace, I have turned to the right, have passed the wide street Amalias and have come to Plaka district. Narrow streets, many taverns, souvenir stores, in one of which I have bought, a little having bargained, a small amphora for 40 euros, on the bottom is written «copy hand painted geometric by F. Karvela period 700 B.C. ¹215». On a way passing by ruins of Adrian’s library, I have reached the metro station Monastiraki and have gone to hotel.

For a supper we have come to a tavern near station Monastiraki, noticed by me earlier. We have occupied a little table outdoors; have ordered suvlaki (local shish kebab) and a bottle of red wine (about 30 euros for all). Then have walked around a little and have returned to hotel.

In the morning we have risen half past five, have gathered, had breakfast in the restaurant of hotel, have handed over the keys and have gone by metro up to Piraeus - the main port of Athens.

2 Aegean Sea

Our motor ship "Blue Star Naxos" of company "Blue Star Ferries" departed at 7.25 and went up to Santorini with stops on Paros and Naxos. The capacious hold of vessel is filled up with cars and trailers; here, near the wall, everyone may place his luggage, that many passengers did, and we too but not in this time, we have dragged a suitcase upward this time, where three decks of the ship are located. On two lower decks inside there are separate cabins, places of 1 class, "aircraft type" places. Also there are open and half-open decks for the passengers of economy class (our case). For the passengers also is opened the part of the upper deck - glazed verandah in the middle part of the vessel. In the time of small occupation of ship "economical" passengers may sit down on the "aircraft" places, there are not the views of surrounding landscapes, but the seats are comfortable and one can watch TV, especially as price of the tickets of these two classes was identical. Furthermore, aboard the ship are several cafe and bars.

And in general, the journey between Greek islands on the motor ship is the most interesting and cheap way. For the all 3 trips we have paid 133,2 Euros for two. The ships are sufficiently large so that rolling was not felt. My spouse, for example, who is very subjected to seasickness, felt herself there quite comfortably.

We have settled down at the table on the open deck at the left board. Beside has located a group of Greeks, all the road they briskly talked and drank “frappe” - cold coffee with milk. The sun began to rise and we have left. We have crossed the bay of Piraeus, filled by the various ships, including warships, and have come to the high sea. The land of Attica passed before us and met the sunrise.

After one and a half hours the continental part of Greece has remained behind and Cyclades have begun. The sun has risen in the cloudless sky, but a heat was not felt because of the amplified wind. We have passed near to island Kythnos with empty enough coast on which only white two-storeyed small houses occasionally happened. Then we have passed by uninhabited islet Serifopoula, appeared from the sea in the form of almost correct rectangular triangle.

The first stop of our ferry was the island Paros and its capital - Parikia. Directly on the moorage is situated the white windmill with the straw roof – the typical element of Cycladic landscape. Everywhere there are two-storeyed, sometimes the three-storeyed white houses with blue doors and windows, white churches with the dark-blue domes - it is quite typical too. Only a Byzantian church in depth of the town not fits into the view, probably it is the Panagia Ekatontapyliani (Our Lady of a Hundred Doors), which is too old to be Cycladic. And still, looking through photos, I have noticed a plenty of trees in this town. Parikia, perhaps, is greener than any of towns and settlements in Naxos and, especially, in Santorini.

In Paros we were detained half an hour. All who need were unloaded and loaded, and our ship has gone further up to a following stop - Naxos.    Further...